Saturday, December 14, 2013

Rougie


One of the foremost strengths of Peace Corps work is that volunteers live in the community they are working with. Unlike other development agencies or almost anyone else devoted to public service of disadvantaged peoples, Peace Corps volunteers can see the problems of their village with greater detail and nuance because they experience it firsthand. 

Peace Corps volunteers also have the opportunity to live with host families, an experience I have treasured and one that brings you even closer to the community. I have come to think of my mothers as my own for the constant care, attention and love they give me. I respect and admire my father. I joke with my sister and delight in her happiness and achievements. I love the babies as if they were my own siblings. 

When I arrived at my site the youngest child was 4 months old, a baby girl named Rougie. I have four younger siblings in America and I have been around many babies in the states, but I have never met one like Rougie. She was the happiest and most joyful baby, smiling and just laughing for the thrill of it every couple minutes with that adorable hiccuping belly laugh that babies have. She was healthy and beautiful and loving. You can see why I fell in love. In the first three months of service volunteers are supposed to hold off on projects to become more integrated into their communities and improve their language, so I spent a lot of my free time with Rougie, enjoying her smile and letting her brighten my day. 






As you may have read in a previous blog post, being sick in Senegal and the ensuing fasting of Ramadan hit me hard. It ended up taking me weeks to feel normal again, and my normal here is significantly weaker and lower energy than my normal in America. I have been totally blown away by the drastic effect nutrition has had on my body. The nutrition at my house actually got worse after that. Before the harvest came in we had a period typically known as starving season. We had our usual plain bread in the morning, and then for lunch we would have a medium to small bowl of rice and half a potato for six people and a baby. Sometimes we got dinner, but for a while it was every other day or every two days. I wish I were exaggerating this. Simply put, I was starving.

But this story isn’t about me. As much as it hurt me and made me unhappy to have so little food, I am a grown woman with years of consuming bountiful healthy food supporting me so my body can handle periods of little food. But for children who are still in development and at vulnerable stages of their lives, it is infinitely more difficult and dangerous. At first I didn’t notice a difference in them. No one ever complained and no one ever said that they were hungry. They played and went to school just as they usually did. But you could tell in little things. They ate frantically when food did come. They cried more often. They slept more. The worst hit by this was of course the littlest, baby Rougie. The first two years of a child’s life are when they are most vulnerable to just about everything, including malnutrition and sickness. Rougie started crying more, a lot more. She didn’t smile or laugh anymore. Her mother, very hungry herself, couldn’t console Rougie and everyone became irritable. Looking back, I didn’t realize why Rougie was crying so much, why she had changed so much from the happy baby I used to know. I thought her mother just wasn’t paying enough attention to her or that she was going through and colicky stage. Towards the end of October her increasingly frail system got sick and she had diarrhea for ten days. Ten days of completely emptying your body when your body is less than 20lbs can be a death sentence. Diarrhea is the number one killer of children under two in this area, and it can happen incredibly fast. I am actually surprised Rougie didn’t get worse faster than she did. It took its toll though. After several days of worriedly watching her and trying desperately to get her to drink ORS, her sickness reached a peak. She started throwing up and couldn’t keep much of anything down. She became listless and couldn’t even hold herself up into a sitting position. I was terrified. I thought we were going to lose Rougie, this tiny beautiful soul that everyone loved so dearly. Her mom and I went to the doctor 4km (2.5 miles) away and he gave Rougie medicine. The next day, she could sit up. She recovered, but she still wasn’t back to her old self. She still cried almost constantly and she didn’t try to crawl or stand up like she had before. She had lost weight over the past month. When I picked her up I could feel her ribs. She had lost a lot of her protective baby fat and you could see it on her tiny frame.

The village health staff and I do baby weighings for children under two years of age in our village once every month. For the month of October we had record numbers of babies whose weight for age put them “in the yellow.” Other children were suffering just like Rougie. 

On the first of November, my work counterparts and I decided to do what is known as a hearth project. My counterpart had heard about it from the Senegalese government organization PRN and I had heard about it from my Peace Corps training, but it was essentially the same thing and is used in many areas where malnutrition is prevalent. Typically you gather a group of 10 to 15 women and their babies and every day one woman cooks while you all talk about proper nutrition and feeding techniques. The children get good food for the duration of the project and the mothers learn how to continue the recipes and practices. For our project we included all the yellow babies who could eat normal food (my counterparts and I strongly advocate for exclusive breastfeeding for the baby’s first six months) in our hearth group and had them come to my counterpart Penda’s house in the evening for 15 days. On the first day we weighed them all to establish baseline weights. We made porridges and rice dishes that were hearty without being too expensive and stressed supervised feeding to the mothers. 

There are two main times a child under two is especially likely to dangerously lose weight. The first is after 6 months when breast milk is no longer enough to sustain the baby and they need to be introduced to other foods. Mothers here feed the babies rice, which has far less nutritional value than breastmilk, or foods that are too adult for their stomachs to handle- things with a lot of hot spices or too much oil. They are also now in danger of getting sick from unclean drinking water or being fed from unclean hands. The second time starts at about a year and a half, when the baby can walk. Mothers and women in general here are extremely busy- just getting water for the day from the well can take 3 hours depending on your family size, not to mention cooking over a fire for as many as 20 people and doing the dishes afterwards, bathing all the children, sweeping the house and yard, doing laundry for everyone, the list goes on. Once a child can walk they are a child of the village and wander and play wherever they please with their friends. How much a toddler is eating or if they are eating at all can get overlooked when they can feed themselves and walk away after Mom gives them bread. They are still at a vulnerable stage of development and can’t quite take care of themselves, but they don’t require the constant attention from their mothers that they used to. The hearth project works on two things to help each of these periods. The first is nutritional, which helps babies of any age, but we specifically teach about foods that are appropriate for young babies to transition to normal solid food. The second focus is the supervised feeding, talking to mothers about overseeing their child’s feeding time and having them practice it for the 15 days. 

I was excited about the project and loved having all the mothers and babies come over in the evenings to eat and hang out. I knew that this kind of project was something I was supposed to be doing as a Peace Corps volunteer and I was happy my village was following through with it. I liked that my counterpart was doing most everything. She was being a leader in the community and I was supporting her, just the role I was supposed to take. I was doing my job, following the book. What I didn’t expect was the drastic change it would have on baby Rougie and how thankful I would be for that. Rougie ate the food ravenously and her mother, initially unenthusiastic about the project, started to watch her more closely and feed her more at lunchtime as well. Before the 15 days were even over I saw a change in Rougie. She stopped crying as much. She started smiling more. She crawled more and started laughing again. She would crawl over to something she had never seen before and just laugh at the joy of discovery. She gained weight and her baby rolls started to come back. In the weeks after, she continued to improve. She was just happier. She would respond to my smile and her mother’s singing. She crawls like a pro now and is starting to climb and stand. She got her first two teeth recently and not even teething has put her out of her naturally sunny disposition. I’m so worried that I am going to miss her first steps. I didn’t fully realize before how much she had changed for the worse when she was sick and hungry. I thought her happiness as a baby just hadn’t lasted through to her toddlerhood. It turned out to be much more than that, but all it took to help her was some knowledge and a little community organization.

The change that I have witnessed in Rougie because of the hearth project is astounding and it gives meaning to all of the work my village does. I know I haven’t written anything in a while and I’m sorry for that, but I hope this post gives some insight to what I have been up to. Sometimes, things are really tough here. Sometimes they end up with an inspiring happy ending. Most times I don’t know what I’m doing. No matter what happens, I am learning a lot and I am surrounded by love.


Friday, October 4, 2013

On Adustment





Every now and then I stop and look around me and have to remind myself aloud that I live in a village in West Africa. 

After seven months, no matter how many times I say it to myself, it never really feels real. The Africa I live in is a bit different than the stereotypical picture- no giraffes or elephants unfortunately- but its not that different. I live in a remote village surrounded by desert brush and scraggly desert thorn trees, my mothers wear brightly colored clothing and carry babies on their backs and water on their heads. At night children dance around drums and in the morning we cook breakfast over an open fire. Its a village in Africa and its actually pretty exotic. 

So why doesn't it feel different to me? Why do I have to stop to look around and realize that its foreign?

My travel experience before Peace Corps was relatively limited. I've never lived in a different country before, never studied abroad, never spent more than three weeks out of the US and I had probably never gone more than a months without seeing my family. So I've never done readjustment before. It should be shocking to me, all the changes and differences. But I guess what I have learned most so far is the resiliency of a human to change and how similar we all really are. Your first week somewhere new, you notice differences- "hey, we don't say that" or "this doesn't look the same as it does in America." But by the second week, all you see is similarities. A market is a place to buy things, public transportation sucks, you have a taste for certain foods and not others, little boys never want to take showers, and if you're tired enough a bed is a bed anywhere. Sooner than you think, all you see is similarity. Before you know it, all you see is normal. Maybe you've changed somehow, accepting a new sense of normalcy, adapting to you surroundings. Or maybe nothing you find in the world is really all that different.

Monday, July 22, 2013

How to Lose 10 Pounds in 10 Days: The Peace Corps Senegal Diet


Four months into my service and I am officially a Peace Corps Volunteer. 
Even more than my formal Swearing-In ceremony two months ago, the events of the past two weeks solidify, to me, my membership in the Peace Corps Community. Volunteers past and present share more than a willingness to serve their country and abandon everything familiar in hopes of a more peaceful world. What really marks a member of the PCV community is an almost gleeful willingness to share poop stories, true first-hand knowledge that integration is often a painful experience, and an appreciation of good food that approaches fanaticism.

My transition starts, of course, with a rather intense stomach illness, the likes of which almost all volunteers are familiar with. After almost four months without any problems despite drinking unfiltered water from my town's well, I foolishly thought that I was above getting sick, that I had somehow acquired a stronger stomach than everyone else. Not so, it turns out. After returning from a wonderful weekend in Kedougou for the 4th of July, my stomach decided to turn on me. I'll keep the description of this brief, so suffice it to say that I learned how to contain simultaneous diarrhea and vomiting into one toilet basin and that pooping blood is just as painful as it sounds. Luckily, a round of ciprofloxacin cured me quickly enough that I was back to my village in just a few days…

…Where I started to fast for Ramadan. In retrospect, fasting after just being ill wasn't the smartest decision. I blame my choices on the fact that I am an eager Peace Corps Volunteer passionately trying to be accepted by my village and also a competitive person. When villagers shook their heads and told me I couldn't do it- alaa, a wawa hoorde Aissata- and when they were pleased that I was indeed fasting, it drove me to keep going. For two days I fasted without food or water, breaking fast with a meal of dates, juice and bread at sundown, followed by a meal of rice and fish between 9:30 and 11:00 pm. Many families observing Ramadan also have a morning meal before the 5 am prayer, but my family chose not to eat in the morning, whether because of preference or lack of finances I don't know. After two days of doing the true fast, I started to drink water, greatly easing the pain of Ramadan and allowing me to be a functional, though still hungry, person. 
Before Ramadan began, I had severely underestimated it. I knew that it would be painful to not eat all day, and I was right, but the pain was not unfamiliar or too overwhelming. After a couple days you almost get used to the feeling. What I underestimated was the joy that a meal can bring. On my first night of breaking fast, I had never tasted anything so wonderful as that date or anything as refreshing as the bucket of water I chugged. It goes beyond how the food tasted though. The weakness you feel in your body from fasting, especially after several days of it, is something that penetrates your muscles and your bones. It makes you lose your balance and puts you to sleep. It confuses you and magnifies your problems. To feel the weakness be replaced by a rush of sugar is like a heady drug circulating your system, and if I ever find a drug that makes you feel that way I will highly recommend it. The pure elation I felt as I ate and looked out at the brilliant pink and orange sunset lighting up the desert sky with a cool breeze on my face was more intense than my writing can express. The aftershocks of it felt like freshness was filling me to the fingertips and at the same time easing me into a comfortable, sleepy happiness. During the day, I hate Ramadan and I have never had hours pass so painfully slowly. In the evening though, it is magical. If you ever find yourself in a Muslim African village during Ramadan I really recommend you try it. 

After my sickness and 11 days of eating less than 1,000 calories, I could tell that I was losing weight. The title to my post may or may not be an exaggeration as I didn't have a way to weigh myself before or now, but I can see my ribs and breastbone much clearer now than before. The feeling of weakness and the vivid persistence of my food dreams were starting to wear on me, so I came into the city today to break my fast and indulge in Spencer's surprise birthday celebration. I don't recommend living in a bush village as a form of weight loss, but I certainly recommend it for the experience.


(To my parents and all my parents friends who are worriers, I'm really okay, I swear. I'm only getting just what I signed up for.)