Fly on the Wall

One of my favorite things about my Peace Corps service so far has been learning a new language. I have studied French (briefly), but the thrill you get when something that previously sounded like gibberish actually makes sense to you is pretty incredible. Sometimes when I am speaking Pulaar I just stop in disbelief that there are such odd sounds coming out of my mouth and that I actually understand them.

I have learned so much by speaking this new language, but I have learned even more from not being able to speak it. There is something incredibly unique and special about watching a culture and a family without knowing what they are saying or being able to say anything yourself. Every night my family congregates in the main (only) room of the house and I get to watch them interact like a fly on the wall. I see how stubborn and brave three year old Habi is, the only child I know who doesn't scream when her hair is braided. I love how she holds her own and plays so fearlessly with the other children. I love how Omar (5), Iy (8) and Alsan (9) always let her play with them but are secretly very careful and protective of her- no kid hits Habi, ever. When the bombs hit Boston a couple weeks ago and they could tell I was sad, Omar and Habi broke into hilarious antics- trying to pick each other up and falling over and giggling- until I was smiling again. I love how I can tell Yero is just coming into being the man of the house. He is kind and thoughtful and is going to be a wonderful head of household. You can almost see the wheels turning in his head as he is torn between being a reserved grown up and playing soccer with the little kids in the street. I get to see how Kadyeta lovingly takes care of everyone and how genuinely joyful she is when playing with the younger children. She knows she is beautiful, but she is determined to put school before anything else. I can already see Yari as a mother, the way she takes her cooking so seriously and how she has mastered a deep-voiced powerful yell to corral the children into behaving. I will always be in awe of her work ethic, constantly taking care of the family and studying in all her spare time by flashlight on the concrete floor. Fati is the oldest and is truly incredible. She never went to school, but she taught herself enough French to be conversational and she has embraced everything the Pulaar culture can offer. She hosts a successful Pulaar radio show in Mbour every Sunday and she sought out classes through local NGOs for herself on everything from reproduction to hand washing. She is the force in the family, the one who keeps everyone organized and moving along. She is stern at times, but truly enjoys her family and her life to the fullest.

I am a lucky volunteer to see the personalities of this great family unfold before my eyes. I know how Fati flips her hand when she asks a question or how carefully Yero takes care of the animals we have. It truly solidifies for me the notion that people the world over are pretty much the same, in the most wonderful way possible.